Sunday 23 August 2015

Tutorial: How to make a pad with an overlocked (serged) exposed core

Exposed cores are a great way of adding a bit of variety to your pad stash.  You may have already seen my tutorial for a 4-layer exposed core pantiliner.  This tutorial is for a heavier duty pad with an exposed core.  Unlike the pantiliner tutorial, you do not stitch through the whole pad when adding the exposed core.  This prevents blood from wicking through the stitches and going through your pad.  I'm using polar fleece as a backing in this tutorial, but PUL would work great too.



This post assumes that you have already downloaded and are familiar with the Luna Wolf patterns/tutorial set with templates and instructions - if not, you can find it here.

First, cut out the layers of fabric you will be using for your core.  I do this by cutting out rectangles just slightly bigger than my core template.  Here, I have used two layers of bamboo fleece and one layer of patterened flannel. 


Stack these pieces of fabric, making sure that the fabric you want on the top is right side up.  Pin in the centre - you don't want the pins anywhere near the edges where the overlocker will be cutting.


Draw around your core template with a water-erasable or air-erasable pen.  This line will be visible on the finished pad, so you will want something that will wash out.


Using the line as a guide, overlock/serge around your core.  Don't worry about the tail, as this can be tucked in underneath the core later.  If you don't have an overlocker, you can use zigzag stitch just inside the line, and then trim the excess fabric with scissors (see the Luna Wolf patterns/tutorial set for instructions/photographs).


Cut out your backing pieces.  I used flannel on the top, and polar fleece on the bottom.  Pin your core right side up to the right side of the piece you want facing upwards - in my case, the blue flannel - tucking the tail underneath.  Stitch the core to this piece only.  I stitched around the edge of the core, just inside the overlock stitch.  Now place your topping and backing fabrics right sides together.  The core will be sandwiched inside.


Sew the topping and backing pieces together as per the Luna Wolf tutorial, leaving a space to turn.  Trim the seam allowance, leaving it longer at your turning space.  Turn the pad right side out, using a knitting needle, chopstick or similar to tease out the corners.  The core is now sitting on top of your pad.  Tuck in the fabric at the turning space, and press.

Topstitch the pad as per the Luna Wolf tutorial.  The trick to this is to keep the foot over the core (see photo below).  If the foot goes underneath, it will bump against the stitches and throw off your line.


Add fastenings, and enjoy your new exposed core pad!


I hope you found this tutorial helpful.  Here are my other tutorials:

Sewing along a guide line
How to make the Luna Wolf patterns longer
How to make a 4-layer exposed core pantiliner

Tutorial: How to make a 4-layer, exposed core pantiliner

The Luna Wolf cloth pad patterns feature hidden cores, but exposed cores are a nice way to mix things up a bit!  Here's how to make a four layer pantiliner with a turned and topstitched core.  (For heavier exposed core pads, please see my tutorial for serged/overlocked exposed cores).




I have used flannel for this liner, and it is suitable for everyday wear, very light flow/spotting, or cup/tampon/sponge backup.  I have used the 8.5 inch pad template, as I prefer slightly bigger liners.

Here's how to make it!

(This post assumes that you have already downloaded the Luna Wolf patterns/tutorial set with templates and instructions - if not, you can find it here.)

Place your core template on the wrong side of your core fabric, and draw around it.  Cut out your core shape half an inch or so outside of your drawn line.  Here is what you should end up with:


Repeat, so that you have a piece of fabric for the back of your core.  Pin these two pieces of fabric right sides together.  On a straight-ish part of the core, mark where your turning space will be.  This should be about 1.5 inches.


Now cut out your backing pieces, and pin these right sides together.


Sew the two core pieces together, and sew the two backing pieces together.  Make sure you leave a turning space.  Trim seam allowance, leaving it a little longer at the turning spaces.  Here's what you'll end up with:


Turn, using a knitting needle or chopstick (or whatever you can find!) to tease out the corners.  Tuck in the fabric at the turning space.  Press, press, press!


Now topstitch the backing part of your pantiliner- the part with the wings.  It'll look like this on both sides:


Pin your core to the centre of your pantiliner:


Now topstitch your core, attaching it to the backing.  You will be stitching through the whole pantiliner.  Add snaps (or alternative fastenings of your choice) and enjoy!


Here's the back of the liner... being all flannel it's reversible, so you can wear it this way around as well!


I hope you found this tutorial helpful.  Here are my other tutorials:

Sewing along a guide line
How to make the Luna Wolf patterns longer
How to make a pad with an overlocked (serged) exposed core

Tutorial: Sewing Along a Guide Line

Most sewing patterns include seam allowance, so that you draw around a template that is larger than your finished item, cut the fabric out on this line, and then sew a specified distance in from the edge of the fabric.  Or you pin the pattern to your fabric and cut around the pattern pieces.

However, pads are often more intricately shaped than other sewn items, and you may find it easier to sew along a pre-drawn line.  If you're having trouble getting your pads looking neat and symmetrical, try this method:

(This post assumes that you have already downloaded the Luna Wolf patterns/tutorial set with templates and instructions - if not, you can find it here.)

First, cut out your template.  However, instead of cutting along the outer line, cut along the inner line.  The template will be the exact size and shape of your finished pad.  In the picture below, I have made a template on clear plastic so I can see the fabric underneath.  Place the template on the wrong side of your topping fabric and draw around it.


Now cut out your pad shape half an inch or so outside of your drawn line.  This is how it will look when you have finished - obviously it will be bigger than your template.


Attach your core to the wrong side of your topping fabric as normal.  The drawn outline will help you centre it.


Cut out your backing fabric, making sure to add seam allowance if you're using the same template.  (You could always print two copies of the templates, and cut out one set on the cutting line, and one set on the sewing line.)  Place the wrong sides together as normal, and pin in place.  Now when you come to sew the pieces together, you will have a nice ink line as a sewing guide.


Tip:  If you find the core is getting in the way and preventing you from turning the corners tightly enough, try using a zipper foot.

Complete your pad as per the Luna Wolf Tutorial - trim seam allowance, turn, press, and topstitch.  Add fastenings and enjoy your pad!


I hope you found this tutorial helpful.  Here are my other cloth pad tutorials:

How to make the Luna Wolf patterns longer
How to make a 4-layer, exposed core pantiliner
How to make a pad with an overlocked (serged) exposed core

Saturday 15 August 2015

Tutorial: How to make the Luna Wolf patterns longer

A few people have told me that they love the Luna Wolf patterns, but wish they came in larger sizes.  While the largest pattern I have available is 11.75 inches, it is very easy to adjust this to make it longer!  This should work with most pad patterns where the wings are fairly well defined.  Here's how to do it:

Step 1:  Print out the pattern pieces for the 11.75 inch pad (or whatever pattern you would like to adjust), and assemble.


Step 2:  Make two horizontal cuts in the pad template, one above and one below the wings.  Your template will now be in three pieces.


Step 3:  Lay your pattern pieces on the piece of card or paper that will be your new template.  Making sure to keep the pieces lined up, space them apart to create a longer pad shape.


Step 4:  Draw around the outside of your template, connecting the lines so that they follow the curves of the pattern.  (You may wish to use paperweights or masking tape to hold your pieces in place.) Cut out your new altered template.


Step 5:  Repeat the process with the core - for this, you will only need to make one horizontal cut.
 


Now your template is complete and you're ready to start sewing!  Just follow the tutorial as normal.

Using this technique to lengthen the pattern means that you keep the proportions of the wings and gusset, and only the length is altered.

Happy sewing!

I hope you found this tutorial helpful.  Here are my other tutorials:

How to make a pad with an overlocked (serged) exposed core
How to make a 4-layer exposed core pantiliner
Sewing along a guide line