I wish I'd thought of that!

One of the greatest things about the Internet is that no matter what you're interested in, somewhere in cyberspace there will be a group of likeminded people to chat to and share ideas with.  There is a Facebook group especially for people who love to make their own cloth pads, and I really enjoy being a part of it.  Whether troubleshooting misbehaving sewing machines or discussing the pros and cons of different fabrics, this group of friendly, creative women help each other to create fabulous cloth pads.

Apparently, a lot has happened in the cloth pad world since I took a break from it for a few years.  Here are some things I have learned:

- Reusable menstrual products are now widely known as RUMPs.  How did it take so many years for someone to think of this?!
- People are making their own underwear using a pattern called "Scrundies", and they look amazing.
- Penis pads are a Thing.  Menstrual pads.  In the shape of penises.
- Also vulvas, teddies, sharks, owls, Batman.  Pads are no longer just pad shaped!
- You can now buy snaps in the shape of hearts and stars.
- HOW many different types of menstrual cup?!

Sometimes people post pictures of pads they have made using the Luna Wolf patterns, and seeing those makes my heart do a little happy flip.

A couple of people have done some really clever, creative things with the patterns, and I am sharing them here with their permission (thanks, ladies!).

Ranela De Guzman came up with a way of cutting out the pattern so that she can trace the cutting line, sewing line, AND core stitching line, all within the same template:

I just love how clever this is.  Everything is already perfectly aligned, centered, and ready to draw around.  I have seen templates cut out on both the cutting and sewing lines, but they always looked flimsy, and I wondered how they would keep their shape.  Including the core stitching guide in the template anchors and stabilises it, totally solving this issue, while having the guide ensures the core stitching is always in the perfect place in relation to the edges of the pad. This is one of those gamechanging ideas that I wish I had thought of, and I can't wait to try it myself!  (Picture by Ranela De Guzman.)

Siena Snedeker adapted the 9" pattern to create a "pocket and insert" style pad, cutting the top and bottom off the template to form the pockets:

 

She repurposed an old swaddle blanket for the foldable inserts.  You could also make a couple of serged cores to use as inserts, and vary the number used to increase/decrease absorbency.  I can see this working really well for a heavy flow if you used PUL backing, and instead of changing the whole pad, you could just change or refold the insert.  I want to make a couple of these to wear to work on my heavy days so I don't have to fit a whole load of AIOs in my bag, just a few inserts.  I'm really looking forward to trying this!  (Picture by Siena Snedeker.)

Thank you so much ladies for letting me use your images and share these cool ideas!

Tutorial: How to make a pad with an overlocked (serged) exposed core

Exposed cores are a great way of adding a bit of variety to your pad stash.  You may have already seen my tutorial for a 4-layer exposed core pantiliner.  This tutorial is for a heavier duty pad with an exposed core.  Unlike the pantiliner tutorial, you do not stitch through the whole pad when adding the exposed core.  This prevents blood from wicking through the stitches and going through your pad.  I'm using polar fleece as a backing in this tutorial, but PUL would work great too.

This post assumes that you have already downloaded and are familiar with the Luna Wolf patterns/tutorial set with templates and instructions - if not, you can find it here.

First, cut out the layers of fabric you will be using for your core.  I do this by cutting out rectangles just slightly bigger than my core template.  Here, I have used two layers of bamboo fleece and one layer of patterened flannel. 

Stack these pieces of fabric, making sure that the fabric you want on the top is right side up.  Pin in the centre - you don't want the pins anywhere near the edges where the overlocker will be cutting.

Draw around your core template with a water-erasable or air-erasable pen.  This line will be visible on the finished pad, so you will want something that will wash out.

Using the line as a guide, overlock/serge around your core.  Don't worry about the tail, as this can be tucked in underneath the core later.  If you don't have an overlocker, you can use zigzag stitch just inside the line, and then trim the excess fabric with scissors (see the Luna Wolf patterns/tutorial set for instructions/photographs).

Cut out your backing pieces.  I used flannel on the top, and polar fleece on the bottom.  Pin your core right side up to the right side of the piece you want facing upwards - in my case, the blue flannel - tucking the tail underneath.  Stitch the core to this piece only.  I stitched around the edge of the core, just inside the overlock stitch.  Now place your topping and backing fabrics right sides together.  The core will be sandwiched inside.

Sew the topping and backing pieces together as per the Luna Wolf tutorial, leaving a space to turn.  Trim the seam allowance, leaving it longer at your turning space.  Turn the pad right side out, using a knitting needle, chopstick or similar to tease out the corners.  The core is now sitting on top of your pad.  Tuck in the fabric at the turning space, and press.

Topstitch the pad as per the Luna Wolf tutorial.  The trick to this is to keep the foot over the core (see photo below).  If the foot goes underneath, it will bump against the stitches and throw off your line.

Add fastenings, and enjoy your new exposed core pad!

I hope you found this tutorial helpful.  Here are my other tutorials:

Sewing along a guide line
How to make the Luna Wolf patterns longer
How to make a 4-layer exposed core pantiliner

Tutorial: How to make a 4-layer, exposed core pantiliner

The Luna Wolf cloth pad patterns feature hidden cores, but exposed cores are a nice way to mix things up a bit!  Here's how to make a four layer pantiliner with a turned and topstitched core.  (For heavier exposed core pads, please see my tutorial for serged/overlocked exposed cores).

I have used flannel for this liner, and it is suitable for everyday wear, very light flow/spotting, or cup/tampon/sponge backup.  I have used the 8.5 inch pad template, as I prefer slightly bigger liners.

Here's how to make it!

(This post assumes that you have already downloaded the Luna Wolf patterns/tutorial set with templates and instructions - if not, you can find it here.)

Place your core template on the wrong side of your core fabric, and draw around it.  Cut out your core shape half an inch or so outside of your drawn line.  Here is what you should end up with:

Repeat, so that you have a piece of fabric for the back of your core.  Pin these two pieces of fabric right sides together.  On a straight-ish part of the core, mark where your turning space will be.  This should be about 1.5 inches.

Now cut out your backing pieces, and pin these right sides together.

Sew the two core pieces together, and sew the two backing pieces together.  Make sure you leave a turning space.  Trim seam allowance, leaving it a little longer at the turning spaces.  Here's what you'll end up with:

Turn, using a knitting needle or chopstick (or whatever you can find!) to tease out the corners.  Tuck in the fabric at the turning space.  Press, press, press!

Now topstitch the backing part of your pantiliner- the part with the wings.  It'll look like this on both sides:

Pin your core to the centre of your pantiliner:

Now topstitch your core, attaching it to the backing.  You will be stitching through the whole pantiliner.  Add snaps (or alternative fastenings of your choice) and enjoy!

Here's the back of the liner... being all flannel it's reversible, so you can wear it this way around as well!

I hope you found this tutorial helpful.  Here are my other tutorials:

Sewing along a guide line
How to make the Luna Wolf patterns longer
How to make a pad with an overlocked (serged) exposed core